Perito Moreno

This picture does not do the Perito Moreno Glacier justice, for when you are standing on the viewing platforms looking at this behemoth, it humbles you. You feel like an ant. Its terminus is 3 miles wide, has 97 square miles of ice, is 19 miles in length, has an average of about 200 feet above water level and about 400 feet under, and is the world’s third largest reserve of fresh water. Then, the magnitude of it all really hits you and sinks in. Its breathtaking beauty proceeds to overload your senses. My buddy and I got to spend about an hour at the viewing platforms, after finishing up the MiniTrekking glacier walk from the afternoon with the outfitting company Hielo y Aventura (highly recommend using that company if you are ever in El Calafate, great tour all around, both Spanish & English speaking guides, shots of whiskey at end of the hike). In this photo, I was able to get a shot off before a huge chunk of the glacier, directly in front of us, calved off into the frozen lake below. You can see an earlier post from about a week prior showing that in action, when I luckily had my iPhone ready in hand to capture that moment. Perito Moreno will forever be etched into not only my memory and eyes, but my heart as well. Magnifique! Los Glaciares National Park, 9405 El Calafate, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/RhU3aK

Perito Glacier Cave

As we were hiking on Perito Moreno, I had to keep reminding myself that I was walking on a glacier and not just some snowy hillside, on ice that probably formed thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of years ago. Up just a bit from the glacier’s terminus, was where the hike began, and 19 miles to the west is how far Perito stretches. Seeing things like this snow cave, with its soft aqua blue glow, was so beautiful and otherworldly. I felt like I was on Planet Hoth, waiting to see a Wampa and Luky Skywalker pop out of this cave. The snow formations, lighting and patterns in the snow, reminded me of being in a Dr. Suess book, like in How the Grinch Stole Christmas. Turn after turn rendered us new views like this. At a certain point, your brain reaches its beauty quota for the day and doesn’t know how to handle the rest, putting you into a temporary meditative state of awe. And let me tell you, that is a very good state to be in. Los Glaciares National Park, 9405 El Calafate, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/xIiH0w

On and on and on and on...

If you stare long enough, the miles and miles of the Perito Moreno Glacier fade into one endless stretch. Folds of crevices and cracks and bends and turns, light glimmering through, peeping out in random places. It looks so familiar but so alien at the same time. Nature is magnificent.

South Georgia Southern Alps

After breakfast that morning, we rolled into Drygalski Fjord on the Southern end of South Georgia, to go on a zodiac ride in Larsen Harbour. The mountains here in the fjord jutted up a good 3,000-4,000 feet, almost abruptly from sea level, so they felt even taller. I love how the peaks look so nicely stacked and spaced against one another, as if they all tried to grow at the same time, but were polite to leave space for the other. Then the beautiful, glistening white snow caps, coupled with the sheer rock faced slopes of the mountains, and the shadows playing a dance in between them. I could have stared for days at all the detail and variances on all these peaks, but had to make my way onto the zodiac. Drygalski Fjord & Larsen Harbour, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands GPS Coordinates: 54°52'18.737" S 35°53'45.426" W

Going Places

This was one of the coolest hikes I have ever been on. Not that it was technically challenging like other hikes I have been on, but the historical significance. This is the last leg of Shackleton’s amazing journey back to the town of Stromness, to get help to rescue his crew, 800 miles away on Elephant Island. The day started off with overcast weather and clouds, which was going to cancel the hike, but later that morning everything cleared up. It was like Shackleton’s spirit was watching over us. We hiked from the other side of the mountain range at Fortuna Bay, up a few thousand feet, through beautiful scenery like this, rushing streams of water, big frozen over lakes, and jagged mountain peaks. And then at the end, the famous Shackleton waterfall, which finally lead down into the whaling town of Stromness, where Shackleton were rescued over a year and a half later. Epically amazing, a moment I will remember the rest of my life! The Shackleton Hike to Stromness, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands GPS Coordinates: 54°9'12.276" S 36°45'21.63" W

The Long Trek Up To Loma

While the trek up the last half of Loma doesn’t look steep, when you add in the ice covered snow that you either have loose footing on or break through to fluffy snow underneath, it adds some time and effort to the hike. But that was ok, for I couldn’t help stopping many times along the way to snap pics like this. How can you not just stare in awe at this all day long? Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/GZkufT

Checking The View

The vistas along the Shackleton Hike were all like this. Stunning landscapes and mountain peaks as far as the eye could see. Along with all the mountain peaks, you can make out the top part of König Glacier right in the middle. If we didn’t have to meet the boat on the other side in Stromness, I could have stayed up here for hours, taking it all in, photographing shot after shot. Kaylan, one of the amazing One Ocean Expeditions leaders, kindly posed for my photo, as if embodying Shackleton back in the day, looking out over the final stretch home. The Shackleton Hike to Stromness, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands GPS Coordinates: 54°9'13.236" S 36°45'29.31" W

Loma Pleigue del Tombado

Trekking up the unmarked trail to Loma del Pliegue Tombado, we were treated to views like this all along the journey. Snow swept mountainsides, delicately preserved, void of footsteps with the sun gently reflecting off the slope, while the mountain range grazed the skyline, peaking over at us as if to say hello. Climbing up the unmarked trail to the lookout point, we would make our way through open fields like this and then get hit with a forest of dormant, sleeping leafless trees, that were so thick and dense, you would lose track of the sky and direction you were suppose to be heading. Several times, we would reorient to get our bearings. Every time we would come out of the clumps of forest, our view of Cerro Fitzroy and Cerro Torre would be different. With the adventure making it up the hillside, along with getting lost on the return down, having views like this helped make anything else on your mind a distant memory. Like a beautiful mirage that actually exists, you feel how small and insignificant you are, yet at the same time, connected to this raw power of nature. Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/rOF647

Torres del Paine

Remember how I mentioned that I am a firm believer in the idea that things happening for a reason? Well, this is a result of another one of those cases. The route we took from Puerto Natales to our hotel near the park was a straight shot, hour and a half drive. But a little more than half way in, we encountered hilly roads with a fresh layer of snow laid down the night before. Our little VW Up had no power, let alone any weight or traction in its tires, to make it up this snowy, icy hill. We eventually relented and turned around, having to take the long way around the whole park, another two plus hours added on, going over unpaved, bumpy dirt roads, with some holes the size of our car. What we thought was an unfortunate situation, turned into an amazing day. As we got closer and closer to the east side entrance of the park, the Torres del Paine range came slowly into view. There was not a cloud in the sky, expect for wisps of clouds scattered here and there, in front of and behind the peaks. What was going to be a two and half hour detour, turned into more like a four plus hour side trip, with a memory card full of shots like this. When you are looking at these magnificent towers, you want to just stare at them forever. If we didn’t have a hotel room waiting for us with a warm bed and delicious food, we may have slept overnight in the car, just to see these peaks that much longer. Torres de Paine, Magallanes y la Antártica Chilena Region, Chile Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/8mwT0O

She's Just Shy & Hiding

Cerro Fitzroy is the iconic mountain range, that the Patagonia clothes maker uses as their logo. Most of the time she's enshrouded in puffy white clouds, from being on the Andes Mountain Range. This region of the world is one of the most fluctuating places in regards to weather and how things can turn in the blink of an eye. One moment, sunny, beautiful skies, the next, clouds out of nowhere, rain, possibly snow and then back to clear. It's an amazing place to be if you're a weather geek.

Fitzroy Hairpiece

I just love this shot, for this cloud hung on for dear life, over an hour plus while we sat and enjoyed our cold pizza lunch at the top of the lookout point at Loma Pliegue del Tombado. It was like one of those balloons that gets tangled in a spiderweb of tree branches and as the wind blows, it sort of attempts to wiggle free, but chooses not to and lie dormant. Meanwhile, tons and tons and tons of smaller, wispier clouds passed over and around this big puffy one, as the powerful trade winds blew over the Andes mountain range from the Pacific. It’s almost as if Fitzroy needed some shade from the bright sun and asked it to just stay put for a little bit or maybe she was putting on a show for us and our cameras. I’m going with the later. Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/16kWBf

Mount Fitzroy

Hello outside world! I have Internet, and of all places, in Torrres del Paine in Chile. This place is so remote, it's not even funny. Shocking I can connect at all let alone post this pic. Funny story behind this one. My buddy and I were in El Chalten, Argentina, last week to hike the myriad of trails. We decided to hike the famous Laguna de Los Tres and climb the last part up to the base of Mount/Cerro Fitzroy, depending on weather. The last part ascends about 1,200 feet in under only a half mile, so fairly steep. Going up was fine with beautiful blue skies. There were some snowy, icy trails, but we made it just fine. Then there is a rather deceptively large hill/ridge to climb up, not steep but a last slow grind to get to the top. That is what you see here in the bottom half with snow and rocks, with stunning Mount Fitzroy peeking out behind. I luckily snapped a pic at this moment, for clouds started to roll in shortly after and by the time we got to the top, most of Mount Fitzroy was completely obscured. Then it started to snow, along with lovely 80-100mph Patagonian winds. We immediately turned around and started our descent. Let's just say I can check that off my not-so-fun bucket list: "Descending down Mount Fitzroy in an almost blinding snow storm with 80-100mph winds, minus hiking poles or crampons." Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/bp8AY8

Fitzroy Up Close

While there are surely other mountains in the world that are taller, what I fell in love with Mount Fitzroy on are its unique variation of peaks, that jut up out of nowhere, along with its cobbled, weathered stoney face. This has a lot to do with the violent weather conditions, especially in winter, getting hit with the trade winds flying across the Pacific Ocean and run smack into the Andes Mountain Range. You definitely see geology and the forces of mother nature at work in Patagonia.

Lunch at Torre

Imagine sitting down to lunch and having this as your view. That is exactly what my buddy Chris and I did that fine afternoon in Los Glaciares National Park. The day prior, we spent hiking to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, along with getting lost on the hike down through unmarked trails, so we opted for a leisurely day on mostly flat trails out to Cerro Torre. Leading up to this view, you see the peaks of Torre the whole time, along with its two glaciers, but you cannot see over the recessional moraine to the glacial fed lake. And while this moraine looks small from a distance, it took us a good 10-15 minutes of hiking up a massively wide base to finally make it to the top of the ridge. And to top it off, the clouds finally cleared by the time we sat down for lunch, giving us spectacular views like this. Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/ohE8S8

The Scale of Size

To give you some perspective of how really immense and tall these mountains are, these two consist of the left side of my Fitzroy pic, that big brown chunk of hillside and then the glacier on the far left. My friend Pablo, who I met in El Chalten and went on this hike with, is my lovely model in the orange jacket. And this shot is zoomed in, so you still have about double or more fully zoomed out. Let’s just put it this way…these mountains are ginormous. And that you have access to such massive grandeur, right at your fingertips, or more accurately, toe-tips, is why my love for Patagonia will never fade. Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/GEFYhN

Mirador los Torres

Torres del Paine and its massive peaks or cuernos (horns), as they say in Chile. Hiking to this viewpoint, was not an easy task, even though its a "shorter" trek than a lot of the other trails in the park (5 miles RT). What is deceiving about it is that it is a continual 5 miles of up and down trails. Think of an Excel doc charting the stock market performance since its inception, a steady slog uphill, with many ups and downs in between. This is what this hike was. But all of that and the effort to get there faded away when you were standing there in person.

Holey Moley!!

After finally finding our way up the unmarked open hillside an hour later, to the top of Loma del Pliegue Tombado, this is what lay before our very eyes. Pure, unadulterated, raw beauty. When my eyes first gazed upon this, it was so moving, my eyes teared up. It took my breath away, for moments later, after that long hike, reality kicked in and I inhaled deeply for more air. Stunning Fitzroy and Torre with wisps of clouds touching their peaks; Glacier Grande and Torre with their radiant aqua blue color; Laguna Torre with its half water, half frozen ice surface. Of the numerous beautiful vistas I have seen on my travels around the world, I can probably only count on one, maybe two hands, views like this that took over my mind, body and soul so completely, as if time stood still. With the combination of a long adventurous hike, up steep, snowy and icy hills, unmarked trails and wind that would make a hurricane jealous, the reward of this at the end of the trail was such a delicious icing on the cake. A moment frozen in time, seared deeply into my memory forever. Los Glaciares National Park, El Chalten, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/16kWBf

Perito Moreno's East Side

Just before we made the final trek to the base of Perito Moreno, to get fitted in crampons, our tour guide stopped us at this forrest clearing. We had been shrouded in the woods on trails leading up to this point and when we made it into the clearing, it took my breath away. The sheer scope and magnitude of this beautiful glacier, up close, makes you feel like an ant. You wonder with amazement how something could be this stunning. My buddy and I were in the English speaking tour guide group, which only had ten people, compared to the Spanish tour with about fifty or so. This was to our advantage, for the tour guides were giving the groups a bit of a history on Perito, and with only ten people, we finished quicker than the others. We were first to get fitted for crampons and set foot on the glacier, but not before being warmly introduced to an amazing glacier, a towering snowcapped mountain, a vibrantly blue sky, pristine aqua blue gray waters and a craggy, rocky tundra. Perito's introduction to us was like one of those warm, enveloping hugs you never want to break from. I wish there was some magic spell I could have conjured up to capture the feeling you get when seeing this in person, for pictures really do not do it justice. Los Glaciares National Park, 9405 El Calafate, Santa Cruz Province Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/64pwpY

Lago y Glacier Grey

Our last day in Torres del Paine and it was again, just like the day before, a calm spring morning with little to no wind. This here is Lago Grey, with Glacier Grey far off in the background. While you will find wind in most place, this part of Torres del Paine, on the west side of the park, is notorious for some really crazy, knock you on your butt winds. But not this day. Our last day in the park, we decided to take it easy after a few days of strenuous hikes. We drove to the south end of Lago Grey and made our way across this spit of land, a mix of sand and large pebbles, that is usually covered in water during the summer months. Three quarters of the way across the lake, an island rises up, with the start of a trail that leads to a lookout point. I ventured on up this stone pebble embankment, to get close to the shore, when I saw these chunks of the glacier. I threw on my telephoto lens and snapped away. The surface was so calm, almost eery to be that still, and the glacier chunks coupled with the glacier off in the back, made for such a great shot. Lago Grey, Magallanes y la Antártica Chilena Region, Chile Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/aesyFc

Lago Pehoe Sunrise

We could not have asked for better conditions that morning. Getting up super early in the AM to catch the sunrise, we hoped there would be no clouds. The forecast the night before called for clear skies, so our fingers were crossed. We knew of this location from the first day we drove by it and instantly knew we had to get back there. This is right on Lake Pehoe, from a little spit of an island that has a hotel on it called Hosteria Pehoe. It is such a tiny island that there is only a small footbridge to get over to it. My buddy and I were setup along the shore the whole morning, when a guest at the hotel was making her way over the bridge to her car. She told us there was an amazing view on the island that gives you an gorgeous panoramic view of the mountain range. Man oh man she wasn’t kidding! Not only was the sky clear as day, but the howling high winds we experienced mostly every day in Patagonia, were nonexistent. This made for a silky smooth surface with a perfect reflection. It was as if even the fish underneath and potential birds landing on the surface, knew we were here, taking pause for us to grab this shot. Hosteria Pehoe, Torres de Paine, Magallanes y la Antártica Chilena Region, Chile Google Maps Location photo was taken from: https://goo.gl/B0xw5f

Shackleton's First Steps on South Georgia

Peggotty Bluff in King Haakon Bay, our first day on land in South Georgia, was a nippy 28 degrees Fahrenheit. But that wouldn’t stop us from going onshore to get our first view of king penguins, elephant and fur seals. Behind us, the tallest peak obscured slightly in clouds, is the 4,000ft peak of Mount Cunningham. And then three glaciers, two which have receded up the peaks, and the other on the far left coming down from the Murray Snowfield. At the opening of King Haakon Bay, Cave Cove on Cape Rosa, is where Ernest Shackleton and his men first set foot on South Georgia, from their epic 800 mile journey across the Atlantic from Elephant Island. This my friends, was in a 22.5 foot sailboat, on open ocean water in the winter. I repeat, a 22.5ft sailboat, open ocean water, winter time, the Southern Atlantic Ocean of dead winter, no GPS, only wet drenched maps, and barely any food or water. And we thought we were cold, bundled up in multiple layers of clothes with wind/waterproof jacket and pants. Peggotty Bluff at King Haakon Bay, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands Google Maps Location photo was taken from: 54°8'45.065" S 37°16'58.805" W

Heading to Fitzroy

All along the barren expanse of Highway 23 leading into El Chalten, you slowly start to get teased with seeing the tip top of Mount Fitzroy. And that's really dependent on weather conditions, for most of the time clouds are hiding this majestic beauty. On this day driving in, the clouds just parted way to show her off. I immediately pulled over and somewhat risked life and limb to get this shot. Not only did the road rise upwards behind me, obscuring any view of oncoming traffic, the 60-70mph winds blocked out any sound of cars and the speed limit was pretty much non-existent here. Getting my settings set curbside, I would run out quickly, plop my camera on its tripod in the middle and fire off a burst of shots, and haul ass back. I was pleasantly surprised on how it turned out, considering the rush I was in the whole time.